I'm writing this from Capri. (Admittedly, I am likely back in California when this posts.) I've been coming to this part of the world for years, and something visceral happens to me here that I have spent a lot of time trying to understand and even more time trying to recreate. It isn't rest, exactly. It isn't escape. It's something closer to full activation. Earlier this week, on a hike above the sea, I stopped mid-step. Not because I was tired. Because I wasn't. The air had